Casino cash game poker strategy

casino cash game poker strategy

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For more tips specific to the nuances and etiquette of live poker in a casino, check out this article. Have you ever seen a player verbally blast a fish for making a bad call and sucking out?

Going on tirades at the table is disrespectful to those around you. Not only does it create a negative environment at the table, but it discourages weak players from making fishy plays.

If anything, you want the opposite. That way, they will feel blissfully happy with their decision-making and continue to make poor strategic choices which will ultimately benefit your bankroll.

Be courteous when you get sucked out on by a fish. Artificial tanking can be reasonable in order to balance your response-time and avoid giving off timing tells, but it is completely unnecessary in most spots.

Jimmy Fricke wrote up another great piece listing common angles cheaters use at the poker table. Here are six of the most common ones:.

Make sure you keep an eye out for these angles at all times. My tip for live poker is to make sure you keep an eye on what your opponents are doing.

What I might think to myself after seeing that is:. Then adjust your strategy to beat them for more money.

When a monotone flop 3 of one suit is dealt and your opponent takes a look back at their cards, they are likely checking to see if they have a card of that suit.

You raise on the button and the big blind calls. The big blind is more than likely trying to see if his hand has a heart in it. Another spot this tell may happen is on two-tone flops.

As with all tells, you should be very selective when trying to apply this tell in game. However, using them in close spots to sway your decision one way or the other is fine.

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Casino Cash Game Poker Strategy Video

Preflop Poker Mistakes You Must Avoid To Move Up In Stakes

These hands are already made for you. Big pocket pairs are such big favorites that you should always raise them for value when nobody has raised in front of you.

With aces, kings, queens and even jacks you should often even reraise. The profit in these hands comes from when you flop an overpair to the board or a set.

When you do, bet. In a game where most of your opponents are loose-passive your kicker will make you a lot of money. Top-pair hands do better against one opponent than many so keep that in mind when choosing your bet sizes.

These are hands that are rarely going to win at showdown unimproved but when they hit they make big-pot hands. A big-pot hand is a hand like a set, a full house, a straight or a flush.

Ideally you would like to see the flop as cheaply as possible with these hands. Speculative hands do best when played in position, so be wary about playing them from up front.

Pocket pairs make huge hands when they flop sets. Sets are often hidden and you can easily stack someone who has top pair or an overpair.

When facing a raise you have to think about your opponent. The main thing about pocket pairs is that when you hit a set you should almost always be looking for the best way to get all your money into the pot.

Suited connectors are great hands -- played within reason. They do make both straights and flushes which are both big-pot hands.

All others should be folded. Suited connectors are hands that play well in position. Playing them from out of position , in contrast, is going to put you in too many marginal spots after the flop.

Suited connectors have much more value these days and are a viable hand to play from more positions and facing raises.

Suited aces are decent speculative hands because they can flop the nut-flush draw and they do have some high-card strength with the ace. Nut-flush draws obviously have value because you can stack smaller flushes.

The problem with flushes though is that they are right there in the open. Suited aces are good hands but not good enough to limp in from any position.

You should be more willing to limp the closer to the button you get. Against a raise suited aces should seldom be played.

A weak pair of aces can be a curse. You feel like you have top pair and should see a showdown but by the time you get there you find yourself outkicked and half a stack short.

These are hands that you want to steer clear of for the most part. They are dominated hands and should be avoided at all costs unless you can get in cheap from late position.

Everything else is trash and should not be played even if it is suited. Suited trash is still trash. Many people think they understand the concept of playing in position but they routinely call raises with marginal hands only to play the rest of the hand out of position.

This is a leak that costs you money. They dictate the flow of the hand: Which is why being in position is so important: You get last say on everything.

If you want to see a free showdown you do; if you want to value-town someone, you do. Sit back and wait for a good hand.

Start with solid holdings and make solid hands after the flop. Pay attention to the game and your opponents.

Profile them in your mind; identify who the weak players are and what their tendencies are. Make your big hand and value bet. Exploit the calling stations and force them to put their money in with worse hands.

Having four or five players all call a 10BB raise is not only possible but almost common. You will, occasionally, come across a player making simple dark-tunnel bluffs.

But for the most part you can still assume that many players at your table bet when they simply have a strong hand.

If you make the call every time you think your opponent is bluffing you will lose far more money than you will make in the game.

Many of these pots will be large-sized pots won by players calling off their stacks on a draw. After watching other players double and triple up, and seeing your own stack slowly shrink, you can start yearning to win a big juicy pot.

An Important Thing to Remember: These concepts are fundamental to understanding how to put value on your outs. Beginners - and even most intermediate poker players - have a very one-dimensional view of outs.

In this view outs are very black or white. Some poker players will never progress beyond this simplistic view. The next step in thinking about outs comes with the understanding of pot odds and implied odds.

In the early stages of poker thought these will do nothing more for a player than to allow a logical reason for when and why to chase outs and a basic understanding of when to fold.

The truth is, not all outs are made the same. As you can see this adds up to 18 outs. Once the outs are broken out like that you can see that in 1, the flush draw must be played exclusively on pot odds.

Our opponent will not put in a single dollar after we make the flush, meaning our implied odds are effectively zero. If we hit a pair as in 2, we have a chance at making a little bit of money, but not much at all.

No tight-aggressive player is going to commit large amounts of money to a pot with nothing but second pair. We need pot odds, since our implied odds are small.

But this makes 2 applicable to both types of odds. Finally, 3 is our meal ticket. If we hit the nine for a straight, there is a good chance that we will get one or two medium to large bets out of our opponent.

Situation 3 will almost never have pot odds involved, but the implied odds can be through the roof. This is one of the only scenarios in which you can draw at a gutshot since you have the pot odds on your other draws to make the long shot gamble profitable.

Every time you hit an overcard for the win you win a little bit more money. Finally, when you hit your gutshot, you get paid. Chips are worthless pieces of clay or plastic , their only purpose that of keeping score.

You must separate yourself from the money you use to buy in to the table before you even sit down. Whether you win or lose in this single session should be absolutely irrelevant to your immediate financial situation.

You post for your first hand and this becomes one stack and change. This looks good to you, and when your own stack looks good, you feel good.

Everything is going well. Typically humans like to set goals and continually advance toward them. For this reason most No-Limit poker players are hoping to double up and make a buy-in.

Once you lose enough chips to put your stack below your first goal you start to feel bad. These sorts of mental traps can force a player to try and "force the action.

When a player finally gets out of the hole and sheds the feeling of being stuck the very last thing they will want to do is to let the feeling return.

From this point, I begin to establis h which opponents I want to test, and gather more information from. I will start off a session very slow, playing tight and simply observing how each opponent plays their hands.

I want to build a table image that has the stronger players at the table thinking I am tight-aggressive and not getting involved much. I switch gears often depending on table flow, and the hands I am dealt in certain positions on the table.

There will be times when I open-raise five times in a row, and there will be times where I open fold 10 times in a row. It all depends on what adjustments I want to make to eventually beat my opponents.

When I get involved in a hand with them, I have a ton of information already on how they play, bet, and react to certain bets. Each session of poker my goal is to gather as much information as possible from each opponent while giving off virtually 0 information to anyone else.

Poker is a game of incomplete information, and I want to limit the information I give away while simultaneously gathering as much information as possible.

Every piece of information is important because you never know when you will be involved in a hand that requires prior information to play for maximum profit and value.

You will rarely hear me speak at a table, and I will have headphones in a majority of the time to give the impression that I am not listening to anything.

They have no idea I am listening, and I have valuable information at my disposal for use in the later stages of a session when I get involved in a hand against them.

This only works against certain opponents who have no idea what I am doing. Being extremely deep stacked yields a great advantage for strong, solid players.

The opportunity to exploit my stack size presented itself about 8hrs into my session last week, and I was able to capitalize on it.

I tank again, this time for about a minute, then make the call. My opponent made a fatal mistake on the river of this hand.

If I was in his position with AQ against myself, I would have checked the turn pot control , and probably call any sized bet hoping to fill up on the river.

Taking control of the table is easy when everyone fears you. I want every player to fear me knowing that if they play a hand against me, it could be for every chip in front of them.

After that big hand, no one would want to get involved with me and I was able to make some more profit by playing small pots with the initiative, and inducing folds.

I know when I can take an opponent off a hand, and I know when I am beat and have to fold. Not losing money is the same as winning money.

To solve the mystery, it will cost you money to find out, and when you decide to pay to see, I will have the better hand and rake in the pot.

This type of aggressive playing style takes an absurd amount of time to master due to the fact that you must be able to analyze each situation that arises with a keen sense of observation, statistics, and table dynamics.

For additional poker strategy, check out our extensive poker strategy category for tips and advice on how to develop your game. I liked what you said about sizing players up when you sit down.

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